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Monday, July 13, 2015

Boathouse Row, Schuylkill River, Philadelphia

Skuling is a type of competitive rowing, which is deeply rooted in the teams of the schools of the ivy league, especially in the Northeast corner of the United States, and particularly in Philadelphia and in the University of Pennsylvania.

The tradition started in the second half of the XIXth Century. 


Boathouse Row, on the Schuylkill River, has been host to some of the most important regattas in the world.  

Local hero, John Kelly Sr., won the Olympic medal for rowing three times. His daughter, Grace Kelly, became a famous movie actress, and eventually married the Prince Renier of Monaco. 



The majority of the buildings along Boathouse 
Row follow the Tudor style of architecture. 














Meet Philbert, the Mascot of the Reading Terminal Market, Philadelphia

Back in the 1950's, my father would take the Broad Street Subway, at the end of the day shift, at the Philadelphia Navy Yard in South Philly, and change trains at Market Street. At this stopover, sometimes he would walk down to pick up something at the Reading Terminal Market, and bring it home for supper.

Philbert, the Mascot of
Reading Terminal Market
 
The Reading Terminal Market was full of items you probably would never find at the local grocery store, and not even at the A&P supper market. To start with, several farmers from the Amish country, out in Lancaster County, would bring in their delicious line of cheeses and ham. Dad would buy Limdburger Cheese, Irish Seaweed, Scrabble, anything that would strike his fancy.

Estela is standing beside the old
traditional wooden push carts the
 huskers would use to bring produce
 into the Reading Terminal Market
 
Railroads competed against each other during most of the second half of the 19 century and well into the 20th. The Reading Railroad had its terminal on 12th and Market, while the mighty Pennsylvania Railroad was at 30th Street. Although much smaller and more regional, the power of the Reading Railroad was its attractive terminal and exotic fresh food market, the first in the country with a huge centralized electric refrigeration system.
 
The "Breakfast & Sausage Sandwiches" is
a typical Amish establishment: note their
straw hats with black ribbons, and black
suspenders.

This stand specializes in all types of
Beef Jerky.
 
Life in Philadelphia changed a great deal after World War II. The Armory diminished production and finally closed, as well as the Navy Yard. Thousand of industrial jobs left the area, many going to the South. People stopped using the Subway and the Elevated trains, and started buying cars and moved to the suburbs.

The Reading Terminal Market
accommodates the eat-in as
well as the take-out trade.
 
The Reading Railroad eventually merged with the Pennsylvania Railroad. Reading Terminal no longer had a mission. The terminal's refrigeration system caught on fire, and was not repaired. People stopped coming in the 1960's and 1970's. It was finally renovated in the 1980's, and today, it has become the center of downtown culinary life.
 

This store specializes in crepes and cookies.

One of several of the fresh fish stands.

Great selection of fish filet.

At noon, the waiting lines get longer

 
Part of the success the newly renewed Reading Terminal Market is among the more young professional executives that come here. They probably went to school in Europe, and became familiar with these types of markets, or maybe while over in Germany or France for travel. It is somewhat of an acquired taste, but also an endearing tradition. It brings us back, face-to-face, with the abc's of marketing, supply and demand, interpersonal relationships, something frequently lost in larger institutional commerce, such as the super and hyper markets, and in suburb-malls.

Cakes and pies baked as you watch.

Pastries and doughnuts.

The delicatessen.

Fresh Vegetables in this aisle.
 
Another bakery


Fresh loaves of pumpernickel
rye and other grain breads.

This coffee dealer will sell
you a pound or brew you a cup


An entire lane of cookie shops


The Termini Brothers is a
good example of different
types of cookies from
 Southern Italy
 



Beautiful display of fresh fish and seafood.

Steak sandwiches are always
 in demand in Philadelphia

 Light pastries of what we call in Spanish
"Pan Dulce".

Philbert is the mascot of the Market. His name is a pun, as the Reading Market is close to Filbert Street. Philbert is actually a big bronze piggy bank, and people drop coins into him everyday, and the revenue is used for charities, especially for those who do not receive proper nutrition.

Philbert bids us farewell!


Friday, July 10, 2015

Philadelphia Water Works, based on a design by Andrea Palladio!

Who designed Philadelphia?

The City of  Philadelphia was founded by William Penn, on a chart given to him by Charles II, the King of England, as a form of settlement of debts that the Crown had with Penn's father, Admiral Penn. The King allotted Penn the entire state, and gave it the name of Pennsylvania, together with the land which now we know as the state of Delaware. The name of Pennsylvania means Forest of Penn.

View of the Schuylkill River from the
 Phialdelphia Water Works

There were already white settlers there, among them, several Swedes. But Penn gave Philadelphia, from the start, a great deal of his own ideals and personality. 

For years, I have told my friends in Mexico, when they asked me what is Philadelphia like, that the city has a very English look about it. The brick houses, stone steps leading up to the front door, the white wooden frames around the doorways and the window shutters. One day my wife asked me, "Why don't you find London fascinating?", and I answered "London looks too much like the city where I grew up: there is nothing exotic about it, nothing out of the ordinary!"

View of the dam on the Schuylkill River
The railing is supported on a Palladian Balaustrade

The fact is, the similarity between the architectural style of Philadelphia and London is a half-truth. Even Penn expressed his desire to built a better city than London, avoiding several shortcomings of the capital of England. One thing he wanted was straight streets, square standard-sized city blocks, and parks, within easy walking distance.
Architecture in Philadelphia has gone through five distinct stages:
  • a Colonial and Federal Period, roughly from 1700 until 1795,
  • a Classical Period, from 1800 until 1830, followed by
  • a Victorian Period, from 1830 until 1900, followed by
  • the Beautiful City period, from 1900 until the Great Depression,
  • followed by a Modern Skyscraper Period of tall buildings of glass and steel, forming a modern city skyline, similar to that of many other American metropolis in the late XX Century and early XXIst Century. This period started in 1987, when the city permitted a building higher than the statue of William Penn on top of City Hall.

The buildings in Philadelphia built in the 18th and 19th century and are still existing, not only portray an "English style", but more precisely a neoclassical style, which we can find here and in Virginia, e.g. Montebello,  and in Washington.

Typical Palladio-style Rotonda
at the Philadelphia Water Works

I lived the first 18 years of my life in Philadelphia, and I never realized how strong was the influence of Italianate Renaissance style prevalent in its many mansions, buildings, churches and houses. Yet when I went to study to live and study in the 1960's to Rome, I felt a familiar feeling in the architecture. Almost every year, I go back to Italy, and only a few months ago I was in the Veneto region, visiting several villas built by Palladio in the 16th Century. Again I felt that strange feeling of familiarity with those buildings.

View of the Philadelphia Water Works
Philadelphia Museum of Art in background
Modern Philadelphia Skyline in back.


Last week, my wife and I visited the Philadelphia Water Works, built on the Schuylkill River at the beginning of the 19th Century. All at once, I realized that the design was completely Palladio.


Frederick Graff (1774-1847) was the architect of the Fairmount Water Works of Philadelphia. Frederick Graff was obviously influenced,  as many of his contemporaries,  by the leading architect of Philadelphia at the beginning of the 19th century, Benjamin Henry Latrobe (1764-1820).

Underground tunnel
Fairmont Water Works

Latrobe was the architect of the First Bank of Pennsylvania,  and was the lifelong friend and mentor of Graff. Latrobe studied in England,  where the prevailing style in public buildings and works,  such as bridges, was inspired in a revival of the style Andrea Palladio initiated in the 16th Century. Graff possibly used a design for the Fairmount Water Works that Palladio had developed for a bridge.

Bridge designed by Andrea Palladio in Bassano

Graff and Latrobe were the precursors of the Greek Revival Architecture that is conceived in England and crosses the Atlantic, taking up roots first in Philadelphia, then in Washington. Latrobe had an apprentice in his office, the son of a carpenter: William Strickland (1788-1854). Strickland worked on seven projects, that converted Philadelphia into the Athens of America:
  • The Second Bank of the United States,
  • The Masonic Hall
  • United States Naval Home
  • The First Unitarian Church
  • The Arch Street Theater
  • The US Mint and
  • The Merchant Exchange.
Pipelines from Water Works 
to Reservoir

200 years ago, Graff's first water mains 200 years ago were made out of hallowed timber. These pipelines carried the water uphill from the water works to reservoir, where now is the Philadelphia Museum of Art. What was the need of a massive Water Works project, precisely at the end of the XVIIIth Century? Pestilence had been the cause of a reduction of 10% of the Population of Philadelphia between 1796 and 1798, and people were wary of the well water.

Machine room in the pump house
Fairmont Water Works

Strickland based his design of the Doric-pillared porticos of the Second Bank on the Parthenon of Athens. that he had studied in a book published in London,  between 1762 and 1816, and written by James Stuart and Nicholas Revett: "The Antiquities of Athens". When referring to "the Antiquities", Strickland called it his "bible". But why Doric Columns? Why not Ionic or Corinthian? It was a simple question of money. Doric is more simple, and less expensive.
William Strickland's Second
Bank of the United States

During a toast in his honor, a colleague repeated the boast of Cesar Augustus said of the Rome he was building during his reign: "Strickland found us living here in Philadelphia in a city of bricks, and he leaves us in a city of marble."